Not being able to complete the wiring, because you don’t have any visual reference to follow. That’s not just you, but a lot of people dealing with voltage regulator issues of the Kawasaki.
And that’s why we feel a Kawasaki voltage regulator wiring diagram is necessary. Along with some information on the wiring, specifically, confusions that need some sorting.
Basically, what we are targeting to talk about today!
Kawasaki Voltage Regulator Wiring Diagram
To test your voltage regulator, having the diagram will be helpful as you’ll need some information on the parts and the wiring that goes with it.
If you look into the diagram, there’s a Flywheel that refers to the (1). And then, the (2) and (3) figures indicate the Ignition Coils and Charging Coil. Near to the Ignition Coils, there’s the number (4) that indicates Spark Plugs.
Afterward, you’ll find the Battery, Key Switch, and Fuse in the same place mentioned as the number (5), (6), and (7). The (8) number is represented as the Voltage Regulator part.
Next on the diagram of the Kawasaki voltage regulator is number (9) that stands on Electric Starter. And, the (10) number is referred to as the Carburetor.
How To Test The Kawasaki Voltage Regulator
The ideal time to check the voltage regulator would be when you find out the battery is good enough but it keeps going dead. That’s when you know there’s something wrong with the voltage regulator. And you can confirm it in two ways.
Which one should you try for testing? That depends on the layout of your lawnmower.
Testing Through the Battery:
- Get a voltmeter or multimeter for the process.
- The voltmeter’s positive red cable needs to connect with the battery’s positive terminal. And the negative back cable would contact the battery’s negative terminal.
- You want to only have a light load on the battery. It’s doable by the key, just partially turn it. And that would make the headlights on.
- Now it’s time to turn on the multimeter or voltmeter and have readings in volts of course. The reading should be close to 12 volts. If it does, then the battery is good and you need to turn the mower on. Everything should stay connected while you get the tortilla fast
- The reading showing on the voltmeter should be higher now. At least 13 volts is necessary to be shown here.
- However, if that does not happen, and the reading is low, the voltage regulator is worn out or completely damaged. You need to repair or replace it as soon as possible.
Testing Through the Voltage Regulator
- Now directly accessing the voltage regulator could be possible. If that’s the case you again need the voltmeter or multimeter.
- Again, you need to connect the positive red cable to the regular’s positive terminal. And then the black negative lead would contact the terminal that’s negative.
- You then have to turn on the multimeter or voltmeter. And have the bolts set for the mower.
- Get the mower lights on and turn key parts of it as well. There should be reading. In case there’s none, the generator is faulty.
- Start the mower and observe the reading. It should be staying constant for us to conclude the voltage regulator is doing fine. However, if it does not, the part is damaged and needs attention.
- Don’t forget to press the generator brushes as well. There should be reading. And if that does not happen you have worn-out brushes that need replacement.
Few Common Confusions That Need Answer
This is a very common scene for those who don’t have a clue about how the voltage regular space connections work. You may be cleaning the part and notice the motor running voltage is not enough.
For example, if it’s the Kawasaki 25hp motor, having a reading of 12.2v is not enough. On full throttle, the lots should be 13 to 14.7 volts.
Now back to the space connection, in this case, it should be three. Two would come from the stator. One wire from the starter should be hooked to the voltage regulator.
Also, some may get confused on whether to go for a straight wire or fused link. And in the case of fuse, what should be the size. Well, apparently you cannot have enough fuses.
And so going with a 20–25-amp fuse along with an inline fuse holder, sounds like the right installation to think about here.
You May Like This Video Too!
Frequently Asked Questions(FAQs)
How do I know if my voltage regulator is bad?
There are many symptoms that notify us of a bad voltage. And these are having low, high, or no voltage output, dim or flickering lights, erratically behaving engine, headlamp working weirdly, and so on.
Can a voltage regulator drain your battery?
Yes, there’s a risk of the voltage regulator draining the battery once it goes bad. And that’s also one of the main reasons why you should replace the voltage regulator as soon as possible. Or else the cost of a dead battery will also add up in no time.
What happens if the voltage regulator fails?
The external systems of the lawnmower will face trouble if the voltage regulator fails. As it won’t be able to cycle power from the battery properly.
So now you have the Kawasaki voltage regulator wiring diagram and ways to check if the part is working right or not. Even for replacing the part, you need to have a proper idea of the area where the voltage regularly connects to other components.
Keeping track of the voltage regulators wires is that’s why so necessary.
You Can Also Read:
- Kawasaki Ignition Coil Problems- 7 Problems & 1 Solution
- Kawasaki Liquid Cooled Engine Problems And The Ways To Solve Them
- Do You Know Who Makes Kawasaki Oil Filters?
- How To Identify And Solve Briggs And Stratton Coil Problems
Enamored with the world of golf Jack pursued a degree in Golf Course Management at THE Ohio State University. This career path allowed him to work on some of the highest profile golf courses in the country! Due to the pandemic, Jack began Inside The Yard as a side hustle that quickly became his main hustle. Since starting the company, Jack has relocated to a homestead in Central Arkansas where he and his wife raise cattle and two little girls.